About us
We value transparency and share information openly. To give you a better understanding of what we do, we’ve put together a comprehensive list of topics from A to Z.
We value transparency and share information openly. To give you a better understanding of what we do, we’ve put together a comprehensive list of topics from A to Z.
Meet our founder Alexandra Schwarzwald, the creative mind behind Fine Principles. With a keen eye for detail and a visual vocabulary that speaks the language of geometry and grids, Alexandra uses the potential of folding techniques and creates multi—faceted jewellery according to a meticulous principle of order.
But let’s start from the beginning. After completing her BA in Communication Design in 2015, Alexandra discovered the passion for jewellery making. She shifted her focus from graphics to object design and started crafting wax models by hand. At the start of her journey, she was already taking a systematic approach to her studies. So, she delved into facets and their impact on various dimensions.
Alexandra was on a mission to discover new design possibilities, and she decided to dig into the world of digital folding. With a newfound excitement for 3D modelling, she decided to shift her focus from analogue wax work to digital, where she recognized a great potential in this field.
In August 2021, she took a creative break and explored shapes resulting from a variety of folding grids. Months of testing and prototyping later, her first collection, ‘Series XF’ was finally ready to be shown to the world. The reveal happened at the BLICKFANG design fair in Hamburg in October 2022, where the jewellery was presented to the public eye.
Well, let us break it down for you in simple terms. An alloy is a composition of two chemical elements, one of which is always a metal. This blend results in a material with improved properties, making it more durable than its individual components.
As pure precious metals are too soft for jewellery processing, additional metals such as copper, tin, bronze, or brass are added to the precious metals. These make the piece of jewellery harder and more resistant to corrosion.
Depending on the mixing ratio, different shades such as yellow, red, rose or white gold can also be achieved by adding silver, or copper. Less well-known gold alloys are green, blue, or black gold.
Alloys also play an important role in the processing or function of the piece of jewellery. Although 18k gold alloys are of higher quality, they are also softer and not really suitable for work-intensive activities, especially in the case of rings. Therefore, 14k gold alloys are preferred for everyday use in order to guarantee longevity.
Bauer Walser is one of three refineries near Pforzheim from which our partner foundry Kalman Hafner sources certified and recycled materials. The company Bauer Walser for precious metals and semi-finished products is a member of the RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council) and holds RJC CoC (Custody of Chain) and RJC CoP (Code of Practices) certifications. This ensures transparency throughout the entire supply chain process to guarantee our jewellery is responsibly sourced.
Please do not get confused — bronze is not a precious metal. It is merely an alloy consisting primarily of copper and tin, to which other metals (including aluminium, manganese, nickel, or zinc) and sometimes non-metals are often added.
‘Carat’ (or metric carat = ct) is used as a unit of measurement and indicates the mass of gemstones.
Originally, carat weighed as much as a dried carob seed, in the Middle Ages as much as three grains of barley or four grains of wheat. In order to standardise the differences across national borders, the values were adjusted at the beginning of the 20th century. Since 1907, exactly 2 milligrams (0.2 grams) has equated to one metric carat.
The caster we work with purchases recycled precious metals from local suppliers near Pforzheim with RJC (Responsible Jewellery Council) certification. They follow the standards of RJC CoC (Chain of Custody) and RJC CoP (Code of Practices). In other words — RJC is the world’s leading sustainability organisation in the jewellery industry.
Both, the caster and goldsmith comply with REACH regulations throughout the entire supply chain. REACH stands for Registration, Evaluation, Authorization, and Restriction of Chemicals and is a regulation of the European Union (EC) No 1907/2006.
Additionally, the caster receives ‘fair gold’ from Fairever, which is a certified supplier of Fairtrade gold and silver and an authorised supplier of Fairmined gold and silver.
Matched by ’logic & beauty‘ — these are the two components that make up Alexandra’s jewellery. They follow mathematical and design principles to support the clearly structured concept and allow scope for further series.
More precisely, Alexandra speaks the visual language of geometry and grids. She uses the potential of folding techniques and follows a meticulous principle of order. By combining simple principles, she transforms folding grids from 2D into 3D and creates multi-faceted jewellery.
We have all heard the term ‘facet’, but few can describe it accurately. The word itself derives from the Latin ‘facies’ (meaning ‘front side’ or ‘face’) and is basically nothing more than a flat or smooth surface on a geometrical shape. Thus, facets find their use in stone carving, dental technology, art and printing, or can even be found as part of a personality trait in psychology.
Our facets are created by folding techniques — more precisely, by the ‘X-Form’ grid. By adding or taking them away, different dynamics and structures are created that have a technical-minimalist or organic-floral appearance.
‘Fineness’ is a unit of measurement and indicates the ratio in which a valuable element is contained in a precious metal alloy.
As we learned in chapter ‘alloy’, fine gold is the name for pure gold, i.e. a metal that has an alloy with at least 99.99% gold. This alloy is commercially available as 999.9‰ fine gold and is rated at 24 carat.
As well as fine gold, fine silver is another material that creates the basis for high-quality jewellery. Fine silver is usually further processed as a component of alloys because, in its purest form, it is very soft and cannot be easily used as a base material for jewellery. Therefore, silver often occurs as sterling silver, a silver alloy with 93.5% or 92.5% fine silver content. The rest of this alloy is typically made up of copper.
The term ‘fine jewellery’ is used for all jewellery made from precious metals such as gold, silver, or platinum. Real gemstones such as diamonds, sapphires, rubies, or emeralds are usually used for fine jewellery.
In contrast, ‘costume’ or ‘fashion’ jewellery refers to any jewellery that is not made from precious metals. Fashion jewellery is sometimes referred to as ‘junk jewellery’ and is often made from cheap base metals such as brass, copper, or aluminium. It can also be made from textiles or leather, or base metals plated with precious metals. If a piece of fashion jewellery is decorated with a gemstone, it is almost always an imitation gemstone, i.e. the ‘gemstone’ can be made of plastic, glass, or crystal, among other things.
Fine jewellery is designed to last a lifetime and can even be passed down through generations. When fine jewellery breaks, it can usually be repaired. In addition, fine jewellery retains its value in the future.
The term ‘falten’ (to fold) is firmly anchored in our language — according to DWDS (Digitales Wörterbuch der deutschen Sprache), the Old German word ‘faldan’ first appeared around 800 AD and developed over the following centuries from ‘valten’, ‘valden’ to ‘vōlden’, and in the ninth-century from ‘faldōn’, ‘faltōn’ to finally ‘falten’. There were also various meanings in circulation, such as ‘to bend’, ‘to fold’, or ‘to bend over’.
‘Folding’ has multi-layered meanings and is in the truest sense a product of nature. In the course of our evolution, landscapes have folded, as well as leaves, flowers, buds, shells, snail shells, mushroom caps, insect wings, and much more. We ourselves carry it on our skin and even in our bodies as a helical double helix — DNA.
Scientists, engineers, mathematicians, educators, artists, designers, and hobbyists of all ages continue to be fascinated by folding. It is not just paper creasing but can be transferred from 1D to 2D to 3D and is independent of materials.
The German educator Friedrich Froebel recognised the potential early on and incorporated it into his ‘Spielegaben’. Josef Albers and Paul Jackson, for example, also used paper folding to teach their students an understanding of geometry, spatial thinking, or simply artistic expression.
Many remarkable inventions have emerged from science and technology that have found their inspiration in folding. For example, the airbag, or tiny origami robots that enter the stomach via a capsule and can be controlled from the outside when unfolded.
Friedrich Wilhelm August Froebel (* 21.4.1782 Oberweißbach in Thuringia, † 21.6.1852 Marienthal near Bad Liebenstein in Thuringia) simply has to be mentioned here because he saw the potential of simple geometric shapes over 170 years ago and incorporated them into his teaching methods.
Froebel was a German educationalist, pedagogue and vocational school teacher and is recognised as the inventor of the kindergarten. He developed the system of toys and activities (‘Spielgaben und Beschäftigungen’), which were simply referred to as ‘Froebel’s Toys’. These could be stacked, laid, moved, folded, cut, pulled, plaited, laced, woven, sewn, stitched, modelled or kneaded. Fröbel wanted to use ‘play’ to stimulate the child’s independence, dexterity, haptic experience, creativity, motor skills and capacity for abstraction.
To put it simply, the galvanic process uses an electrolyte bath to create metallic coatings on objects. Learn more about the process in section P — (galvanic) gold plating.
We use a mathematical number sequence — in our case the Geometric Series — as a useful tool. To limit and control the folds, we take the approach of doubling (1, 2, 4, 8, etc.) and halving (1, 1/2, 1/4, 1/8, etc.), both in the number of facets and dimensions.
Four of our six categories strictly follow the rule. However, since rings and bangles correspond to natural body measurements, they are each drawn and adapted separately.
Josef Albers (* March 19, 1888 in Bottrop; † March 25, 1976 in New Haven, Connecticut) was a German-American painter, art theorist and educator. His most famous work is probably his colour square painting ‘Homage to the Square’, which is one of the pioneers of Op Art, optical art.
In addition to his studies on colour theory, Albers also devoted himself to the subject of folding. As early as the 1920s, Josef Albers taught folding techniques at the Bauhaus in order to provide his students with solutions to problems. He encouraged students to plan their folded paper models in advance to ensure that the economy of form was in proportion to the expected amount of material and labour.
Kalman Hafner is our partner with over 55 years of experience in investment casting. The caster offers productions ranging from individual pieces to series, which are realized in complex work steps using the so-called lost-wax process.
Kalman Hafner receives certified precious metals from local suppliers in Pforzheim and Leipzig, such as:
Bauer Walser AG →
Fairever GmbH →
C. Hafner GmbH + Co. KG →
Agosi AG →
As of September 2024, we’re proud to be an official Fairmined licensed brand! The agreement is made between the ARM (Alliance for Responsible Mining, registered charity no.: S0001168) and us, Fine Principles.
ARM develops standards that aim to transform artisanal and small-scale mining so that it is responsible and fair — economically, environmentally, ethically and socially. The organization also facilitates access to certified precious metals through traceable supply chains.
Read on when you want to know more about ARM and the Fairmined Standard →
Casting is a craft that has been used for thousands of years and became possible with the development of brick kilns around 3000 BC. Since then, various processes have evolved, such as centrifugal casting, die casting, continuous casting, and mould casting, to name just a few.
Our partner, Kalman Hafner, is an expert in investment casting and uses the lost-wax process to bring our jewellery to life. The process begins with each piece being made from wax components printed using 3D technology. This positive model is then used to create a plaster cast, which is filled with molten precious metals.
Once the raw casting is completed, it undergoes a quality control process. Upon approval, it’s sent to the goldsmith, who cleans each piece with meticulous care. The surface remains mostly untouched to preserve the intricate structure of the facets.
We enjoy collaborating with casters, goldsmiths, and metal suppliers from Pforzheim, where everyone is local and well-connected. We believe in supporting local craftsmanship and aim to maintain long-term relationships with manufacturers and workers.
If you would like to get in touch with us, please feel free to do so. We have already gained in-depth knowledge and experience in the industry and are happy to share our expertise with goldsmiths, designers, or simply jewellery lovers.
We want to support responsible consumption — therefore, we focus on small quantities and production on demand. As a result, it takes several weeks to craft each piece and deliver it to your home. This is because various processes take place behind the scenes, both internally and externally.
However, we also participate in selected jewellery and design fairs across Germany, where we offer a small selection of pieces for purchase on-site.
In the process of (galvanic) gold plating, a distinction is made between two types (2 & 3) of coating — one is a high-quality gold plating, the other merely a gold colour.
The three most common precious metals in jewellery processing are gold, silver, and, in recent years, platinum, but there are plenty more. Precious metals are rare and are mined under more difficult conditions, compared to sand, for example.
The special thing about these precious metals is that they are corrosion-resistant, meaning they hardly react to air or water. In ancient times, coins were usually made of gold or silver because they had a certain quality standard and were valuable. However, it occasionally happened that fraudsters filed gold off the edge of the coins and thereby enriched themselves. To stop these gold thieves, the fluted edge that we still know today was created.
A few facts about gold and silver mining — the largest producing countries in terms of gold reserves are China, Australia, Russia, and North America (USA and Canada). The leading countries in silver mining are Mexico, China, Peru, Chile, and Australia.
At present, it takes several weeks to produce even small quantities of our jewellery. This is due to the intricate and time-consuming processes that occur behind the scenes. Let’s walk through it from the beginning:
The journey starts with an examination of folding techniques and initial ideas, which are then brought to life through sketches. Once the design concept is finalised, we move to the next stage, where it’s brought into the digital realm with 3D printing. After creating prototypes, we assess them carefully, making adjustments as necessary. At this stage, the CAD (Computer-Aided Design) drawings are re-evaluated to ensure the design’s feasibility.
Once the design is approved, the jewellery enters the production phase, which unfolds in five key steps:
CAD check & 3D printing — The first step is to print each model based on the CAD design. This allows us to create a more precise piece of jewellery, rather than using a silicone mould.
Lost-wax casting — Using the lost-wax casting method, each model is meticulously cast. Whether creating a single piece or producing small quantities, we rely on the latest casting machines to achieve precision.
Gold smithing work — After casting, the pieces undergo detailed gold smithing work. This involves cleaning and refining the jewellery by hand, ensuring each piece is perfectly prepared for wear.
(Optional) Gold plating — The next step is gold plating, where the jewellery is coated with a galvanic layer in the chosen colour and thickness.
Quality control — Finally, each piece goes through a quality control process and is then ready for delivery.
After examining the recycling process in the jewellery industry, we became aware of a more nuanced reality. While recycled metals often come from old jewellery, watches, coins, or electronic waste, the concept of “recycled” gold and silver is more complex than it initially appears — especially in the case of “recycled” gold.
According to the definition provided by the OECD (Organisation for Economic Co-operation and Development), gold is classified as “recycled” if it has been converted at least once after its initial refining from newly mined gold. This allows freshly mined gold to be declared as “recycled” without ever having been used by a consumer. Since many consumers associate the term “recycled” with “responsible”, a more precise definition of recycled gold is required — one that aligns with general expectations of recycling.
At the same time, Fairever highlights that recycling precious metals, given their limited availability and the ongoing demand in both the economy and society, does not directly reduce raw material extraction. The recycling process itself is energy-intensive and can release harmful chemicals. Furthermore, child labour on toxic waste dumps remains a significant issue that requires urgent action.
Honest sustainability, therefore, means making the entire supply chain and the resources used environmentally friendly and ethical, both for the present and for future generations.
Sustainability in a company involves far more than just considering products or packaging. While we craft our products using certified RJC and Fairmined precious metals and utilize packaging made from certified FSC® materials, the internal and external challenges require significantly more effort and deeper understanding.
An essential part of this process is critically examining common labels such as fair, eco-friendly, vegan, sustainable, or recycled. While these terms may sound morally appealing, they should be scrutinized carefully, especially within the jewellery industry.
Many in the industry are undoubtedly on the right path — and we at Fine Principles are committed to continuously questioning and improving our own standards. In doing so, we aim to prioritize transparent communication that provides you with an honest and realistic view of our brand.
If you have any questions or comments on any topic, please don’t hesitate to get in touch with us!
‘Series XF’ is our first collection and is inspired by the ‘X-form’ folding technique. As the name suggests, the shape consists of a repeating pattern of triangles that resemble consecutive Xs.
The collection consists of 28 pieces and is divided into six categories — ring, bar earring, circle earring, bangle, pendant, and creole. The jewellery follows a timeless approach and is made for everyone.
We love the aesthetics of sharp edges, and we hope you do too. To preserve this unique feature, we keep the surface as pure as possible after casting. As a result, all our pieces have a slightly textured yet shiny surface.
A piece of jewellery can be worn every day, which means that plated rings and bracelets, in particular, can wear off more quickly than earrings. It is completely normal as they automatically come into contact with other objects. Hence, we offer a touch-up service in which the goldsmith brings back the original shine, and specializes only on the surface of your jewellery.
Please keep in mind that more extensive repairs, like fixing dents or reshaping edges, aren’t possible since those are just natural signs of wear and tear.
For us, digital folding refers to the process of transforming a flat, two-dimensional grid into a fully three-dimensional object using advanced CAD (Computer-Aided Design) software.
Imagine a flat sheet of paper that, through precise folding techniques, becomes a bird. In the same way, we use digital tools to fold and shape a virtual design into a tangible, intricate three-dimensional form. This process allows us to manipulate the geometry of the object, testing and refining its proportions and features before it ever takes physical form.
Through digital folding, we gain a level of precision and flexibility that traditional methods can’t always offer. It allows for greater exploration of shapes, textures, and structures, helping us create complex designs that are both visually stunning and structurally sound.
We’ve taken a systematic approach, making it easy for you to mix and match pieces based on your preferences, whether it’s by size, model, or colour. That’s why we believe that our jewellery is simply suitable for everyone.
XF is derived from the folding technique ‘X-Form’. As the name suggests, the X-shape consists of a repeating pattern of triangles that resemble successive Xs. Today, we find ‘X-Form’ in paper folding, of course, but also in sculpture, art, architecture, ceramics, graphics, and jewellery design.
We stand by 0 % OFF and believe in saying NO THANK YOU to aggressive marketing strategies.
We’re committed to offering genuine value without resorting to the usual sales gimmicks. Rather than pushing for sales, discounts, deals, or promotions, we focus on building a lasting relationship with our customers through a more thoughtful, honest approach.
3D technology has long been an integral part of the jewellery industry. Among others, it consists of software that can be used to draw 3D models and hardware that can be used to print 3D models.
For us, 3D modelling gives us the freedom to create more complex and complicated geometries than possible by hand. In fact, Alexandra started out that way, but then deliberately switched to 3D modelling in order to explore the world of digital folding more efficiently.
With 3D technology, we can make customer-specific adjustments more quickly and produce in small series. All of this is done with the help of local workshops in Pforzheim, who implement our designs using 3D printing along with handcrafted methods.
Navigation
Series XF
Support
Legal
Get our newsletter
Type to start searching
Find results →
